Visit to Srirangapattanam

This sleepy little town, about 18 KM from Mysore, was once the capital of Tippu Sultan’s kingdom. This ancient temple town has stood the test of time for many centuries. The entire town was fortified and the fort wall runs around the town. The fort wall though damaged is very prominent even today.
 

The temple has the unique distinction of being the only temple where Lord Vishnu has been depicted in the sleeping pose with His Consort Goddess Lakshmi seated at his feet. The temple itself dates back a few centuries. The temple complex has many smaller temples of like Sri Anjaneya Temple. The temple opens to the public at around 9.30 a.m. I reached the temple at around 8.30 a.m. and waited till we were permitted into the temple after the pooja. I was one of the first few people who had darshan on that day. The river Cauvery is just a stone’s throw from the temple. The Cauvery spreads wide and flows quietly compared to the areas in the North where it is more turbulent. The Cauvery distributes itself into two tributaries - Cauvery North & Cauvery South. By train, you cross the South Cauvery to get to the town and cross North Cauvery to go towards Mysore. The old bridges built by the British are now being used by two wheelers and bullock carts.

A walk along the river bank is a soothing experience. The calm, serene location is the perfect getaway from the blaring sounds of the city. One sees a very less intrusion into his/her private space, and everyone one see around is engaged in his/her daily chores - a tourist takes pictures of Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon ; just a few meters away a guide tries to cash the captured beauty of Srirangapatnam through photos; a farmer ploughs his land on the other bank of the river ; a boy flies his kite keeping a careful watch on the grazing buffalo. Except for an occasional interruption, silence prevails. But to the keen listener, even this silence is musical, Cauvery dances down the slopes and flows musically through the rocks.

A walk along the river bank promises one an unforgettable experience. You can walk to Tippu Sultan’s tomb, palace & Jumma masjid. The tomb and palace are well preserved. There is also a memorial at the place where Tippu fell to the British Raj. The story of Tippu resisting the British strongly still reverberates in this land. Tippu was the first Indian king to use artillery effectively against the British and just not that - it is said that the use of rockets in warfare was indeed new to the Englishmen. The British could not break into the fort for a long time . One of Tippu’s trusted generals betrayed him. On the pretext of disbursing salaries to soldiers, he intentionally relaxed vigil at a gate. The British seized the opportunity as it came and Tippu and his troops had to face the surprise attack by the British. And behold! It was too late by then. Tippu fell to the cunning Raj protecting his fort with bravery that had no equal in his time. Recently Tippu’s sword was recovered and kept at the Mysore Palace.

Jumma Masjid is a wonderful blend of Islamic & Hindu architectures. The minarets of the mosques are sculpted in Hindu style. Legend has it that Tippu Sultan regularly visited this mosque for prayers. Srirangapattana has many smaller temples. A walk through the main street reveals more of the religious flavor of this town. Girls learning classical music and dance cannot escape a visitor’s attention. The main street itself is very narrow and dotted on both sides by hotels and shops.

The religious harmony which existed here from many years is still prevalent. The best way to go around this town is to walk along the Cauvery bank. You could go around at your own pace and enjoy the laidback attitude. Due to its close proximity to Mysore, Srirangapattana can also be a good place for a night’s halt. It is well connected to Mysore by road and rail and for those waiting to make the difference could also hire an auto. Auto drivers on offer take you to all the important monuments in town. But I felt it was better to explore on my own. A leisurely walk was all it took. A day is good enough to keep you occupied with the explorations of the ancient monuments that chain through the town’s streets.

The entire town seems to be cut off from the rest of the world. A trip to Srirangapattana is sure to soothe one’s soul.